Day 198 - 200 Malawi : Kande Beach Resort

Day 198 Malawi

Trip Distance 256km (159m) Total Distance 22003 km (13675 m)
Road Condition 100% tar    
Time to travel 5hrs    
Cost of diesel MK199.30 (£0.90)    
Kande Beach
Kande Beach Resort S11 57.064 E34 07.342 MK1400 (US$10) - Catering mostly for overland trucks but once gone, site peaceful.  Hot showers & flushing loos relatively clean.  Sandy shaded area to park incl electricity.

The drive down to the middle of the lake was a pleasant one interspersed with a couple of police check points where the policemen saunters ever so slowly up to the barrier then over to the car.  Inane questions proffered with a smile of "where are you coming from" and "where are you going to?" ensue and regardless of your answers they wave you through ever so reluctantly.  We have a new saying now.... moving at the speed of a Malawian policeman (bloody slowly!).

Just before Kande Beach we pulled into Makuzi Beach which had been recommended to us by the Danby's - they'd raved about it.  Unfortunately with it being a yoga retreat and the chalets full for the weekend, they would only let us stay for 1 night then we would have had to move on.  We wanted to take a break for a few days and do some scuba diving with the cychlids so despite it looking like a fabulous place to stay, we pushed on to Kande Beach.  We were a little horrified when we eventually pulled up at Kande Beach to find the site inundated with 6 overland trucks.  Normally this would mean noisy parties, dirty toilets and loud, raucous laughter at 3am.  Thank god, this time we were wrong as the trucks were carrying mostly married couples and of ages averaging older than 30.  Phew!  Later on 2 Kiwis came over from one of the trucks to have a chat and admire Sully - one of them was Tom and we were to meet him the following night again.

We had found a spot away from the trucks and set up but the next day discovered that the tree to the right of us provided no shade whatsoever so once the trucks had all departed, we snaffled a spot in the shade.  Thomas appeared on the scene again later that day and settled in next to us.  We made the spot our own without ever impinging on the trucks or they on us.

We floated around on Day 199 doing nothing too strenuous other than booking a dive for later that afternoon.  However a big wind rose, Lake Malawi turned into what looked like a sea with shore breakers of more than 1ma_SG107604, although great to bodysurf in, the visibility was bad so we postponed our dive for the following day.

That afternoon, Jackie and Bossie arrived into camp.  They are travelling north to Uganda and back to Namibia with their 2 girls.  We had a quick chat to them and, wanting to exchange some of the usual traveller information on routes and camps, arranged to have a braai with them the following night.

That evening as we were preparing supper (oxtail from Shoprite - and prepared in the little pressure cooker that I had spotted in Rwanda and persuaded Trevor to find room for!), Tom came over again to have another chat.  As we were talking the conversation got onto "oh, you're from New Zealand.  Jokingly we said “We met someone from New Zealand in Egypt and spent a amazing time with them crossing Sudan” (You know, like people saying to you - and we have had this in the States - "you've from South Africa, well I have a cousin in Nigeria who owns a shop.  Perhaps you know him?").  “Yeah,” says Tom, “ our friends did it on public transport but had a Top Gear challenge with some bikers and overlanders.”…..  You can imagine how the conversation developed from there when we told him that we were the overlanders.  After supper Tom and Vicki came over to Sully for a coffee and a chat.  The world is such a small place really, isn't it?

Day 200 - an auspicious day for us on the road and we are still loving it.  We got up early this morning with the sun blazing again in order to make time for the Kande Reef dive this morning starting at 08:30am.  Although the reef was clearly visible, we were taken out on a mini RIB and dropped at the site.  For an hour we watch cychlids and rocks ...... and pretty much nothing else.  Oh yes, a jeep that's been sunk as well.  It was certainly a "tick in the box" dive but one not to be repeated.

We prepared some sosaties for the braai from the rib-eye steaks that we had bought in Addis (it feels so long ago now!!).  I had marinated them in rosemary, garlic and olive oil and we interspersed the meat with red & green pepper, onions, baby new potatoes and butternut.  They were delicious.  Thomas made a salad with his fresh tomatoes purchased that day from the village and Jackie provided a delicious cheese and biscuits to start and some fabulous bottles of South African red wine.  It was a fantastic meal - thanks guys, we really had a great time!