Day 368 - 369 Zambia : Siavongo - Lusaka

Day 368 Zambia

Trip Distance 246km (153m) Total Distance 3445km(2141m)
Road Condition 95% tar 5%  
Time to travel 2.75 hrs 20 mins  
Cost of diesel ZKw6297 (£0.88)    
Pioneer Camp S15 23.722 E28 27.078 ZKw50000 (£7.17) - Good site, grassy with shade, electricity, pool, fab hosts

We finally tied up and docked it at around 12noon and after offloading all our baggage, got it all into the vehicles and set off.  Although the trip to Lusaka was a relatively short one and we had had another huge fry up that morning, we had eaten early so by the time we got into Lusaka at 4:30pm we were all hungry.  Rule No.1 when travelling - don't skip meals and if you are hungry look for food.  Low blood sugar and Friday rush hour traffic do NOT mix well.

We were pushing to get to Lusaka before close of business as Mau & Pete's Land Cruiser had blown a seal on the aircon compressor and it was hot work for them travelling without it.  First stop was Toyota where Pete was sent off to someone on the other side of town specialising in aircons.  We split off from them briefly to go and draw some money and to find a shop to buy some fresh provisions for supper.  Just 200m down Cairo Road from Toyota we spotted a bank, drew some money and carried on looking for a shop.  Another couple of hundred metres further and a Shoprite appeared on our left.  We used a slip road to exit the dual carriageway and entered the Shoprite parking at the first entry we found and then the fun began.  As we were pulling into a parking a local chap in a pin striped shirt and tie approached Sully and knocked on Trevor's window.  Thinking he was a money changer or a tout, Trevor waved him off and turned around to talk to me.  The next minute after some gesticulation from the officious pin-striped git, another bloke in a high viz jacket comes bounding up and starts to fit a clamp to the wheel.  What????????  Trevor wound down the window and was greeted with a stream of abuse about us having violated the parking rules and having entered through an exit boom.  After a couple of seconds of genuine surprise and protestation (we really hadn't even realised we had done it being unfamiliar with the area and parking and on exiting checking that there were NO signs that told us we couldn't enter), Trevor reversed out of the clamp (not yet fastened), we pushed our way passed the officious idiot and quickly winding up his window we drove sedately away towards a policeman who had just entered on his motorcycle.  We slowed down to chat to him to explain the issue when we heard shouting and footsteps running after us.  Not wanting to hang around - we know when we've been targeted as rich, white tourists caught and trapped into paying a bribe to get away - we carried on driving slowly to the exit and left the area.  If anyone from Shoprite or Zambian Tourism is reading this - you lost out on our tourist dollars to provision up as we ended up spending over ZKw1,000,000 at Spar in the Arcades the next day.  We will ensure that no visitors reading our blog will visit you.  Your staff (security or otherwise) were unnecessarily aggressive and rude and you need to address this immediately.  We will avoid any Shoprite in Zambia during our visit.

Although we had told Mau and Pete that we were going to head for Pioneer Camp, we were shaken by the confrontation and just headed out of town towards Eureka Campsite 10kms south of the city.  Once we were there we had a good look around and it looked great but decided that we would try and get into contact with Mau and Pete again to see where they were.  They hadn't left the city yet and were lost looking for the Standard bank.  So off we set again back to the city avoiding the main street (and in the hope that our details hadn't been circulated to the traffic police and a warrant produced to arrested us!!!!) found Mau and Pete and trundled off to the Standard Bank.  It was now dark and we need to get to a camp, so we decided being north of the city we would make our way to Pioneer Camp.  We set off at 6pm and 12kms and 1.5hours later through horrendous Friday night rush hour traffic we found ourselves on the dirt track to Pioneer. 

We were exhausted when we arrived made all the worse by having eaten nothing all day.  So on checking ourselves in we ordered a meal and sat down to wait as the kitchen had been closed but they very kindly opened it up for us again.  Delicious steaks and T-bones arrived and we ate ourselves to a standstill before collapsing into bed.

The following morning we packed up, checked out and made our way to the Arcades shopping Centre on the Great Eastern Road.  We provisioned up and went into the Spar Coffee Shop for a light bite to eat.  Do yourselves a favour and go and eat some local food there - the nshima is delightful and the curry and stews that are served with it glorious.  Whilst we were sitting around eating, we decided that the 500km trip up to our next stop Chimfunshi Chimp Sanctuary was too long a haul for such a late start, so we made our way back to Pioneer for another night and a early start the next day. 

#1 Claire and Dickie on 4.27.2010 at 9:14 PM

Glad to see you're back on the road. Started work last week and really missing the bush. Safe travels. Cx

Hiya Claire, Dickie and girls

Great to be back on the road after the madness of work at home.  Thinking of you at work. 

Love Trevor & Jan