Day 386 Zambia : Lusaka - Luangwa Bridge

Day 386 Zambia

Trip Distance 230km (143m) Total Distance 5112km(3177m)
Road Condition 95% tar 5% dirt  
Time to travel 2hrs 40 mins 20 minutes  
Cost of diesel ZKw6297 (£0.88)    
Luangwa Bridge Camp S15 00.310 E30 12.921 ZKw90000 (£12) - Yuegh, dirty, horrible ablutions, inhospitable hosts - don't bother

With a visit to South Luangwa National Park on the cards we set off.  The park had been recommended to us by Linda, Jacques and Tyrone for a great place to see leopard (although with the rainy season just having ended and the grass so tall, perhaps not the best timing).

We hit the road with the intention of going back to travelling our 200-300kms per day, so the most sensible stop would be at Luangwa Bridge Campsite halfway to South Luangwa and just 230km from Pioneer Camp in Lusaka.  Perfect!!

But perfect was not how it turned out to be.  The campsite is dusty and dry and the owners, a dutch couple, rude and inhospitable.  We arrived to check in at reception when the man/husband was eating and the woman/wife was reading.  He turned away from his food for a second to look at us, ignoring our hellos and she didn't even bother to raise her head from her book.  We paid the reception and trotted back down the hill to the campsite.  An all pervading smell of human excrement was everywhere and completely unpleasant.  Thankfully as it cooled down, the smell eased almost to disappearing.

We set up camp vowing to leave as early as possible the next day but as it was so hot, thought that a dip in the pool would cool us down a little.  ha what a joke.  The swimming pool had just been filled with river water and was the colour of strong tea.  As Trevor's legs disappeared into the murk, the receptionist was heard to remark, "Don't worry, it has been treated."  I wasn't so sure as I spotted the little patches of scum floating in the water.  Minutes later we retired back to the car - never again!!!!

So there we were, preparing supper and we hear the pleasant sound of a diesel engine belonging to another Land Rover making its way up the road and into the camp.  Pieter and Rita, having spent some time in Malawi, were on their way back to SA via Zimbabwe and Mana Pools.  We had a brief chat before heading off to bed.